Fabric Collage Holiday Cards

Fabric Collage Holiday Cards Liz Kettle

Whip up these delightful collage art cards this Holiday season. They are fun and easy enough to make it a family project. These cards can be adapted to any holiday and if you have a motif cutting machine they would be a snap to make.

Purchased card blanks
Fabric scraps to fit your theme
Mardi Gras Faux Suede (or white fabric) for the snow-women 4″ x 7″
Orange embroidery floss or pearl cotton and chenille needle
Fusible web such as Misty Fuse
Craft weight stabilizer such as Craft Fuse or tear away stabilizer
A circle template in multiple sizes-easily found at office supply stores or use a compass
Sewing machine, assorted threads, and sharp scissors
Wooden printing block and printing mat
Opaque textile paint in white and iridescent paint, glitter paint pen or sparkle gel pen
Small sponge

Wooden Printing Blocks, printing mat, and textile paint- artisticartifacts.com

Holiday Cards Liz Kettle 1

Directions for Sassy Snow Women Cards

1. Cut stabilizer the finished size of your card design. Allow about a ½” border around the edge of the card. If the stabilizer does not have a fusible side, apply Misty Fuse fusible web to one side of the stabilizer.
2. For the stripped background, rip strips of fabric about ½” – 3/4” wide and as long as needed to cover the width of your stabilizer. Place strips on top of the fusible side of the stabilizer. Allow the ripped edges to overlap slightly. Iron to fuse the strips to the stabilizer.

3. Apply fusible web to the wrong side of the faux suede and a small piece of black cotton for the eyes and buttons.
4. Mark and cut three circles from the Mardi Gras faux suede 1 3/8″, 1 ¾”, 2 ¼”. Free hand cut 5 small circles (about ¼” dia) from the black fabric. Rip narrow strips from a scrap of plaid fabric.
5. Fuse the faux suede circles to the background stripped fabric. The faux suede is heavy enough that the background fabrics don’t show through.
6. Using a free motion foot and a metallic thread (my favorite is WonderFil Spotlight) stitch around the body circles of the snow-women.
7. Create a nose for the snow-woman with the orange thread and a single open detached chain stitch.

8. Fuse the artwork to your purchased card base and finish with a zigzag stich around the fabric edge.


Directions for block printed card:

Holiday Cards Liz Kettle Tree

1. Create a fabric background following steps 1 and 2 above2. Place the foam block printing mat on a firm surface. Place the stripped background on top of the mat. Use a sponge to apply the white paint to the wood block.


3. Place wood printing block down on the fabric and press gently to create a clean image. If needed, use a small brush to add more paint to an unpainted area. Let paint dry.

4. Using a free motion foot and metallic or your preferred thread outline the block printed image. Add highlights with iridescent paint, glitter paint pen or sparkle gel pen.
5. Fuse the artwork to your purchased card base and finish with a zigzag stich around the fabric edge.

Embellishing option: Lightly sprinkle BoNash 007 powdered glue on the fabric and cover with foil. Use a warm iron to apply foil following package directions.
Applying paint to wooden printing blocks
Car Wash sponges work perfectly for applying paint to wooden printing blocks. Use scissors to cut the large sponges into smaller squares. Put paint on a palette or paper plate, dab the sponge in the paint and then dab on a clean spot on the plate to reduce any gloppy paint spots on the sponge. Dab the paint on the block using a gentle up and down motion.

Liz Kettle head shot 2017
Liz Kettle is a fabric and mixed media artist with a passion for teaching others the joy of making art and fascination in the creative process.

Posted in art ideas, Christmas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Fabric, Fabric Art, Fiber Art, Free Craft Projects, Fun Stuff, How To, Liz Kettle, Seasonal, Tutorials | Leave a comment

Felt Gift Card Envelope Tutorial

Felt Gift Card Envelope Tutorial
by Jessica Schunke of A Blue Sky Kind of Life

While I always love buying or making special, unique gifts for most of the people on my holiday gift list, sometimes a gift card really is just the ticket, and no one ever minds getting a little extra in their stocking. Still, I can’t resist the opportunity to jazz mine up just a bit by making my own quick, fun little felt envelopes for them. I put together this tutorial to guide you through the very simple steps for making a tree, gift box, or stocking design. Of course, the sky’s the limit on creating other options or even just a random improvisational design, especially if you’re making one for another time of year. Felt stripes or hexies could be really cute. Get creative!
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #21
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #2
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #3
Scraps or sheets of felt in a variety of colors (colors and sizes needed will vary based on the design you’re making; see cutting instructions below)
Embroidery floss
Embroidery needle
Fabric glue
Rotary cutter
Cutting mat
Fabric scissors
Marking pencil

Cutting instructions:
For all designs:

  • Envelope backing: 2.75″ x 4.25″
  • Envelope front: 2.75″ x 3.25″

For the tree, you also need the following:

  • Tree trunk: ¼” x ¾”
  • Tree: cut using template (need felt piece measuring 2.25” x 2.75”)
  • Star: cut using template (need felt piece measuring ½” square)

For the stocking, you also need the following:

  • Stocking: cut using template (need felt piece measuring 2.25” x 3.75”)
  • Stocking cuff: cut using template (need felt piece measuring 1.75” x 1.25”)
  • Hanging loop: ¼” x 1.25”

For the gift box, you also need the following:

  • Ribbon: 3/8” x 4.5” and 3/8” x 3” (I like to cut my pieces a little bigger than the envelope and then trim them after I’ve glued them on, but you can also cut your pieces to size if you prefer, which would be 3/8” x 4.25” and 3/8” x 2.75”.)
  • Bow: 1.25” x 1”

Piecing instructions:
The images in the tutorial were taken while making all four envelopes, so the colors switch around. The basic steps are the same for each envelope, and I’ve specified when a certain step only applies to one of the designs.

1. Using your rotary cutter and mat, cut out a 2.75″ x 4.25″ rectangle for the back of the envelope (the side that will have the design on it) and a 2.75″ x 3.25″ rectangle for the front of the envelope.

2. For the Christmas tree and stocking designs, use the templates found here to trace the tree, star, stocking, and/or stocking cuff images onto one side of your colored felt pieces using your marking tool. (Be sure to save the template file to your desktop before printing. You may experience printing errors or incorrect sizing if you attempt to print directly from the link.) Then, cut out on the line using your fabric scissors. Cut out all remaining pieces using the cutting instructions above.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #4
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #5

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #6

3. For the Christmas tree, you have several options for “decorating” your tree. I chose to add my decorations using embroidery floss, but you could also use sequins, beads, or little felt pieces cut into circles. For one of my trees, I made French knots in a variety of embroidery thread colors. These knots are a little tricky on such a small piece of felt (and without the stability of a hoop), but it gets easier after you do a few.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #7
On the other tree, I made stars out of straight stitches using white embroidery thread. This one’s definitely easier and can be finished in no time.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #8
If you choose to decorate your trees with embroidery, I recommend that you do so before you attach the tree to the envelope backing so that your stitches will be hidden once you attach the tree to the backing. If you’re gluing on sequins or felt, the order doesn’t matter.

4. Attach your felt design pieces to the envelope backing (the larger rectangle). I find it’s helpful to lay out my pieces first so I can get a sense of how they fit on the backing. Be sure to leave 1/4” border all the way around for your final stitching, then glue down the pieces using your fabric glue. Coat the pieces lightly but thoroughly.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #9
Special instructions for individual designs:
On the Christmas tree, the base of the tree should overlap the trunk slightly, and the star will rest on the top point of the tree.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #10
On the gift box, I made the measurements for the “ribbon” pieces longer than the backing piece because I like to cut my pieces a little bigger and then trim them after I’ve glued them on, just to make sure they reach all the way to the edge of the backing piece.
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #11
On the stocking, one end of the hanging loop will be sandwiched between the envelope backing piece and the back side of the stocking piece, and the other end will go between the front side of the stocking piece and the back side of the cuff piece, as shown. Glue well.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #12
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #13
With all of the designs, but especially with the stocking, I recommend stopping at this point and letting the glue dry thoroughly overnight before finishing.

5. Finish embellishing your design, if needed.

For the gift box, add the bow by folding the bow rectangle in half lengthwise. Secure it by wrapping embroidery thread around the middle several times, leaving both ends of the thread tails free. Thread one of the thread tails onto an embroidery needle and, holding the bow in place, stitch through the “ribbon” and envelope backing on the top side of the bow, pulling the tail thread to the back side of the envelope. Repeat with the other tail thread on the bottom side of the bow, then tie the two thread tails in a knot on the back side and clip the extra thread.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #14

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #15
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #16
For the stocking, your glue should hold everything in place, but I chose to add additional stitching for security and to add to the design. I added a simple running stitch to the cuff in silver embroidery thread and one in green to the stocking body.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #17

6. To finish the envelope, attach the front piece to the back with a simple running stitch using embroidery thread. First, run a small running stitch along the top of the front envelope piece (the small rectangle, the one without the design embellishment). Your stitch should start from the back side of the front piece and only run along the top of the front piece (you’re not stitching it to the backing piece yet). I work from right to left, but either direction will work.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #18

Once you reach the end of the top side, align your front piece with the backing piece, wrong sides together, then continue your running stitch (without cutting your thread) into the backing piece. Continue stitching all the way around the envelope (on the bottom half, you’ll be stitching through both the front and back pieces; on the top half, you’ll only be stitching through the backing piece) until you return to this point, then tie off your thread with a simple knot sandwiched between the two envelope pieces.

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #19
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #20

7. Now you’re ready to stuff those envelopes full of gift cards and pass them on to everyone you know. Enjoy!

Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #21
Jessica Schunk GC Envelope #22



Hi! I’m Jessica, a sewing, baking, editing, mommying Texan transplanted to the Midwest.

Check out Jessica’s blog A Blue Sky Kind of Life!

Posted in art ideas, Christmas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Cutting Mat, Fabric, Fabric Art, Free Craft Projects, Free Sewing Project, Fun Stuff, Holiday Projects, How To, Jessica Schunke, Jessica Schunke, Seasonal, Tutorials, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

A Holiday How To – Holly Jolly Christmas Pillow!

Make This Easy Holly Jolly Christmas Pillow

By Terry White ©2012


Here is a cheery bright modern holiday pillow pattern. This simple construction includes a flange edge and a sham back…so no fooling with trying to stuff and hand stitch an edge…yay!


It really is the fabrics that make this a great pillow. For the background of the design, I chose a heavy canvas decorator fabric (it was a remnant). Cut the stripe fabric 15” x 13”. For the holly berries and leaves, I chose single color on color print fabrics that “read” as solids in contrast to the multicolored stripe. After trying out a few fabrics for the flange edge, the red polka dot really seemed to compliment the whimsy of the other fabric choices. The red and green fabrics are sort of polka dotty.


Trace the berry and leaf shapes onto the fusible web. Rough cut and press them onto the fabrics according to the manufacturer’s directions. Then, I do a little pre-pull of the paper back so that when I cut out the shapes with the fabric it will be easy to take that pre-pulled paper and peel it off.


Cut out the shapes and lay them onto the background stripe. You can arrange these shapes in a variety of ways. In fact, I think it would be neat to make three pillows with each arranged in a different manner.

Fuse shapes. If you want, you may stitch around the edges of the shapes – I didn’t.

Cut the polka dot fabric 2 inches wider than the striped background on each side. So, I cut my fabric 17” x 19”. This will add body to the pillow and be the border flange.


I keep different widths of hem tape. This is fusible web cut in a ribbon with or without paper backing. The one I used here is ¾ inch wide. I used it to fuse baste the
panel onto the polka dot fabric.


I cut my hem tape shorter than each edge of the fabric, placed it, then fused
the edge of the fabric to the polka dot.


Next – to stitch the top fabric to the polka dot, I chose an edge stitch. The fuse basting helps me to have a nice flat surface on which to stitch…no pins on this step.


I used a 30 weight cotton thread to stitch along the edge. Use a 90/14 machine embroidery needle on this step. The needle works with the thread and the heavy combination of fabrics. I also loosened the top tension on the embroidery stitch for a fuller look. I used the open toe appliqué foot so that I could see to stitch right along the edge of the design panel.

This completes the pillow top…give it a press.


The next step is to make the pillow sham back. Cut two pieces of fabric 13” x 17”, I chose to use a different red polka dot fabric. Why did I do this?…because I used scraps
for the whole project, that’s why.


Fold and press ¼ inch along one long side of each fabric piece. Notice that I have
a piece of ¾ inch hem tape which I will use along the edge.


Fold and press 3/4 inch hem.


With the hem tape in between, fuse the hem and do the same for the other piece of fabric.


Overlap the two hemmed pieces of fabric, so that they measure 17” x 19”. I used to stitch baste these pieces together, but now I fuse baste them.


Cut a piece of hem tape the length of the overlap. I also cut it so it would
only be ¼ inch wide. Fuse.


This is what the sham back looks like. It is the same size as the pillow top
with a hemmed overlap.


Place pillow top and backing right sides together.


Give it a little press.


Pin, Pin, Pin.


Stitch around the whole pillow with a ¼ inch seam allowance.


Press the seam.


Turn right side out. I like to use this little wooden point to poke out the corners
and edges of the pillow.


This is the pillow at this point. Give it a press.


Pin along the edge of the design panel, pinning the back and front together.


This is a picture of the stitch I chose to stitch the pillow front and back together at the border flange. It is called a lightning stitch. I think it is more fun than a regular zig zag or satin stitch. I used the same machine settings and set up as the first stitching.


Edge stitch the along the design panel. This stitch complements the first stitch.
It is also a sturdy stitch as it is the pillow edge.


Stuff the pillow or add a pillow insert into the back of the pillow.


Add a button to the back if you like – and you’re done!

TerryWhiteTerry White is a studio fiber artist. She has been doing this work since 1996, and she discovered the techniques she uses (threadpaint, machine appliqué, piece, quilt, embellish with beads, fibers and minutiae with sewing machine techniques) through experimentation and self-study. Terry teaches these techniques through classes and videos. Over the years Terry has been published in over 50 articles in magazines and books, including McCall’s Needlework, Quilter’s Newsletter, Machine Embroidery and Textile Arts, CMA trade magazine, Stitch n Sew Quilts, Quick n Easy Quilts, Quilt World magazine and Calendar, Quilting Arts Calendar 2003, America from the Heart, America’s Best and America Sews. She is a wife, stitcher, artist, sister, mother, friend, nana, gardener, baker, writer, student, teacher and American.  See more of Terry’s work at www.threadpaint.com.



Posted in art ideas, Christmas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Fabric, Fabric Cutter, Free Craft Projects, Free Sewing Project, Fun Stuff, Holiday Projects, Pillows, Seasonal, Terry White, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Send Something Special – A Handmade Christmas Card!

Fabric Christmas Cards: A Holiday How-To!

A Free Craft Project By Liz Kettle

snowflake postcard

I love sending fabric postcards to friends and family but I have gotten out of the habit in the last year as I spend more time communicating virtually. A friend posted a challenge on her blog to send out some actual physical mail and I thought I would take up that challenge and challenge all of you to consider it as well. We all love getting real mail!

snowflake postcard 2

Snow season is just getting started in earnest here in Colorado so I thought some snowflake postcards would be perfect. These snowflakes are created by combining and manipulating the decorative stitches on your machine. Even if you don’t have a lot of fancy stitches I know you will find a couple that can be combined to make a pretty snowflake.

stitch outs

Look at your programmed decorative stitches for patterns that are geometric in form; triangles, diamonds, circles, points. Consider creating a program stitch dictionary as in the photo above that shows what all those stitches you have actually look like…you will be so glad you did this! How do these stitches change when you alter the length or width? What pattern do they create when stitched back to back in mirror image? It can take a bit of play and experimentation to find ones that work well together so be sure to make some notes about the ones you like and the adjustments you make for future reference.

These snowflakes look great on winter and holiday themed quilts as well as make great postcards. Have fun playing with your different stitches!

snowflake supplies

Rotary cutter, ruler and mat
Embroidery scissor with double curve
Light and dark blue fabric
Firm stabilizer (I used Pellon Peltex #72-fusible on both sides)
Threads: White rayon, silver or white metallic or hologram and a lightweight polyester bobbin thread.
Embroidery or metallic machine needle 90/14
Chalk or marking pencil in white
Ruler with a 60degree line
Ribbon for text

In nature snowflakes are created around six fold symmetry. A ruler with a 60degree line makes creating a snowflake guide easy. The 2” length described here is the length I used for the Vintage German Snowflake. To create smaller or larger flakes simply draw a shorter or longer line. Sorry about the dye on my hands in the photos…just having too much fun around here!

snowflake 60d 1

1. Use a ruler to draw a line 2 inches long. Place a small dot in the center.

snowflake 60d 2

2. Place the 60degree line on your ruler on the drawn line with the edge of the ruler at the center dot. Draw a line approximately 2” long

snowflake 60d 3

3. Move the 60degree line on the ruler to the new line. Place it at the intersection of the two previous lines. Draw a line approximately 2” long.

Making the snowflake postcard:

1. Use the rotary cutter, mat and ruler to cut your fabrics and stabilizer 4”x6”. The 60mm rotary cutter makes cutting through heavy stabilizers a dream!
2. Fuse the dark blue fabric to one side of the stabilizer. If you don’t have Peltex 72, use a fusible web such as Misty Fuse to adhere the fabric to the stabilizer.
3. Pick one of the snowflake designs I have given you below or experiment with your stitches to come up with new patterns. Determine the best method of stitching your chosen design. Does it look better stitched from the outside to the center, from the center out, or can it be stitched across the length of the snowflake.
4. Use a marking pencil to mark the 60degree lines on the dark blue fabric as shown above.

5. Stitch the snowflakes on the dark blue fabric and stabilizer using the directions below.

snowflake postcard text

6. For the text, I printed on ribbon using my inkjet printer. This technique is in both of my books and I have a tutorial on my web site in the group forum section. Alternative methods would be to use rubber stamps or a fabric marker to write by hand. Use fusible web to secure the ribbon and stitch around the edge as desired.

snowflake postcard fuse back

7. Fuse the light blue fabric to the back of the postcard.

snowflake postcard edge

8. Stitch around the perimeter of the postcard. I used a zigzag stitch in silver metallic thread. I like to stitch around the perimeter twice for a full but not quite satin stitch. Straight and decorative stitches are great options as well.
9. Use a Sharpie or fabric marker to write your message and address your card. I apply a 1st class stamp rather than a postcard stamp and send it on its way.


I used a silver metallic thread to give a vintage mercury glass feel to this snowflake. The stitches for this snowflake are two that are on my 22 year old machine that only has a total of 12 stitches. Havel’s 5” double curved scissors are the perfect tool for clipping threads during machine embroidery. They get super close to the fabric to give you a clean cut but the curve prevents that horrid moment when you realize you just cut your fabric. The double curve is great when you are using an embroidery hoop and the finger holes are the perfect size. You are going to love these scissors!!

snowflake vintage first

You can see how closely the curved embroidery scissors trim the thread. No whispy fray bits of thread in sight!

You can see how closely the curved embroidery scissors trim the thread. No whispy fray bits of thread in sight!

1. An eyelet stitch was stitched to provide an open center. If you don’t have an eyelet stitch, simply draw a small circle and begin your stitching at the edge of the circle.

snowflake vintage german 1

2. Next an oval satin stitch at a slightly reduced width was stitched from the edge of the eyelet stitch out for two repeats.

snowflake vintage german 2

3. A flower chain stitch was inserted between each of the previous stitch lines to create this vintage look snowflake.


This delicate snowflake uses a programmed feather stitch that looks best stitched from the outside into the center. I drew my lines 1 1/5” long.

snowflake feather 2

Begin the stitch at the outer edge of the circle then stitch towards the center. Stitch on all 6 radiating lines.


To create this snowflake the stitch is made by slightly lengthening the stitch length on a satin stitch triangle stitch. My length setting was .80

snowflake poinsettia 1

1. Stitch the design in one direction for one repeat, pivot 180degrees and stitch back to the center.

snowflake poinsettia 2

2. Pivot again and repeat along each snowflake guide line.

snowflake poinsettia circle

3. Finally, one repeat of a circle satin stitch and a couple straight stitches are added to the tip of each point.

I have a dear friend who is leaving her frigid climate for the warm breezes of Florida next week…I will be sending her one of these so she doesn’t forget the pleasure of snow! She will be jealous of all our snow don’t you think?

Liz Kettle is a mixed media and textile artist living in snowy Colorado. She is co-author of 2 books, Fabric Embellishing: The Basics and Beyond and Threads: The Basics and Beyond. Liz loves teaching and sharing the joy of making stuff in her articles, classes and at her fabulous retreat, Textile Evolution. Visit her blog and website, www.TextileEvolution.com



Posted in art ideas, Christmas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Fabric, Fabric Art, Fabric Cutter, Free Craft Projects, Fun Stuff, Holiday Projects, How To, Liz Kettle, Tutorials | Leave a comment

Havel’s Sewing & Shruti Dandekar Team Up for a Giveway!

Havels Fabric & Quilt Ruler Cutter : Product Review, Tutorial and a Giveaway

by Shruti Dandekar October 04, 2017

I love a few of my quilting tools and I would love to share them with you. My favorite cutting tool is the Havels Fabric and Quilt Ruler Cutter.

I love all the new tools that I see in the market. So after becoming the Brand Ambassador for Havels Sewing, the first thing I ordered was their fabulous cutting system aka the Havels Fabric and Quilt Ruler Cutter.
This is how Havels website describes it:
A revolutionary new product from Havel’s Sewing, our Fabric and Quilt Ruler Cutter will save you a ton of time with any project! It’s easy to use, and the “no-slip-grip-strip” keeps it stable for better control and more precise cutting. Made for use with our extra sharp, replaceable 45mm alloy steel rotary blade.

● Drastically reduces your cutting time!
● 27 1/2” long, 6” wide – great for a wide variety
of projects
● Saves wear and tear on hands and wrists
(easy on carpal tunnel!)
● Clear, easy to read measurements on ruler
● Magnetic wand included

And here are my views about it :
1. When I held it in my hand the first thing I noticed was that it was not as heavy as I thought it would be. There is a large channel that runs on your dominant hand side (both lefties and righties can use this) where the blade is mounted. It makes it look heavy, but it isn’t. Of course I would not compare the weight with a regular ruler.
2. The ruler is LONG! At 27.5″ it is the longest ruler I have and makes cutting larger pieces of fabric a breeze. It is actually longer than my cutting mat!
3. The ruler needs a little getting used to. ONE inch of the ruler goes under the channel. So it needs a little bit of time to get used to the measurements. Its super simple, just follow the markings on the ruler rather than making your own calculations.
4. Cutting pieces less than 1″ is tricky. Not impossible. Just read my small tutorial on how to cut strips smaller than 1″ using this cutter at the end of this post.
5. The rotary cutting blade is NEVER exposed to your hands! That means it can be very safe to use! A few years back, Aadi had cut his fingers with a rotary cutter and needed 11 stitches (his left thumb nail still grows in two pieces). It was every quilter’s nightmare. Since then, I have never really been comfortable letting him use the rotary cutter. I have hovered over him each time he uses one. But with this cutting system, I can see myself letting him use it without me loosing a few heartbeats.
6. It uses the regular 45 mm Rotary Cutter blades. They recommend using Havel’s blades. But I tried using my Fiskars titanium blade and it works just fine.
7. Changing the blade is easier than my Olfa Ergonomic Cutter. The best part is that I do not have to remember the sequence of the parts as I remove them!
8. At $59.99, it is a bit steeply priced, as compared to an Olfa Ergonomic Rotary Cutter PLUS an Omnigrid 6 x 24 ruler (on Amazon) – $32.91, but the convenience of using the product is totally worth it.
9. Overall, I love the product. I have already switched to it instead of my routine ruler-cutter combo without even realizing it.
Here’s a quick tutorial on how to cut pieces smaller than 1″ using the cutting system.

• Lay your fabric on the cutting mat aligning the grain of the fabric with the grid on the mat.


• First cut the left edge of the fabric. Just use your palm to press down firmly on the cutter and slide it away from your body. Remove the piece of fabric on the extreme left.


• Now align the lines on the ruler with the lines on the mat to measure desired width. In my case it was 3/4″. And cut again.


• You’re done!


The super fun guys at Havels have offered a fabulous chance to win this awesome cutting system. Head over to my Instagrampost and follow me to know more about it.

Posted in Cutting Mat, Fabric, Fabric Cutter, How To, Quilting, Reviews, Sewing Supplies, Shruti Dandekar | Leave a comment