Birds On A Stick

Birds on a Stick

By Liz Kettle

birds on a stick - finished project 1
Create a flock of fabulous feathered friends with this fun summer stitch project! I like to have a bunch of birds ready to go for a travel stitch project. What I especially love about small projects is that I feel free to experiment with stitches and colors…go wild and play!

Supplies:

Craft felt

Assorted fabrics-scraps are fine

Misty fuse or similar fusible web

Assorted threads: WonderFil perle cotton 8 wt  and Spagetti 12wt are two favorites

Chenille or embroidery hand sewing needles

Havel’s 5 ½” curved embroidery, 8” sewing and Teflon coated scissors

Marking pen/pencil or Sharpie marker

Polyester stuffing

Dowel and craft glue

 

Steps:

    1. Print out the bird pattern and create a template using template plastic or thin cardboard. Cut out the template shapes. Use Havel’s Teflon coated scissors to cut out the templates. The micro serration helps you cut on the line even on slippery plastic.

birds on a stick pattern pieces 15
Birds On A Stick 1

    2. Trace the bird body on the felt with the marking pen

Birds On A Stick 2

      3. Cut out the felt using Havel’s 8” sewing scissors. You need two pieces of felt for each bird. The colors don’t have to match. Set aside one for the back of the bird.

Birds On A Stick 3

      4. Following manufacturer’s directions apply fusible web to the back of your fabrics. Trace the bird body, breast, and wing pieces on the chosen fabrics and cut out using the curved embroidery scissors. Cut out a lot of bits so you can mix and match.

Birds On A Stick 4

      5. Free cut a small circle for the inner eye. These curved embroidery scissors are my go to tool for cutting smooth curves. I know they are made specifically for cutting threads close but once you try them for curves you will want a few pairs….trust me.  Opps, almost forgot. Cut out a triangle for the beak too.

Birds On A Stick 5

      6. Fuse the bird body to the felt. Arrange the breast, wings, eye and nose on top of the bird body and fuse in place.

Birds On A Stick 6

      7. Now the fun begins, embellish your bird with stitches! The stitches I used the most are straight, cross, fly, and knots but feel free to use any stitch you love. I use both WonderFil Spagetti 12 wt. cotton thread and WonderFil Eleganza 8wt perle cotton. They come in such luscious colors, don’t be afraid to play with all the colors. They don’t need to match!
      8. When you are finished stitching details on your birds, grab the remining felt bird for the back. Place them wrong sides together and beginning in the middle of the belly, stitch around the outside using a running or whip stitch. Leave 1 – 1 ½” unstitched at the belly.
      9. Stuff the bird with polyfil making sure to get it into the beak and tail. Then stitch the opening almost closed. Leave just enough room to insert the dowel rod. Put a small amount of craft glue on the top of the dowel and insert it into the opening on the bird. Stitch the remaining opening closed.
      10. Ta-Da! You have a Bird on a Stick. I know you want to go make a bunch more now….have fun,
      Liz

 

      Stitch directions

Bird On A Stick 7
Straight or Running stitch- The straight stitch can be stitched as a single line or in patterns. Be sure to keep the needle on top of the fabric when you are stitching to prevent hand fatigue.

Bird On A Stick 8

Cross Stitch- A variation of the straight stitch, traditionally the cross stitch is created in rows but I love to make single cross stitches and scatter them all over the place or use them in unusual ways. Vary the size and angle of the cross over stitch.

Bird On A Stick 9

Bird On A Stick 10

Bird On A Stick 11
Fly stitch- When making the fly stitch think of a V shape. Knot the thread and come up from the back of the fabric. Put the needle back into the fabric a small distance from where it came out (the other top point of the V) and bring it out a similar small distance away (the bottom of the V). Put the needle back into the fabric either a tiny distance or larger distance away.

Bird On A Stick 12

Bird On A Stick 13

Bird On A Stick 14

Knots- Knot the thread and come up from the back of the fabric. Hold the thread in your non-dominant hand and wrap the thread around the needle 3-4 times. Put the needle back into the fabric very close to where the needle came out. Hold it taut as you take your needle back into the fabric to create a knot.

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Posted in Applique Scissors, art ideas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Fabric, Fabric Art, Fabric Scissors, For Beginners in Sewing, Free Craft Projects, Free Sewing Project, Fun Stuff, Liz Kettle, Seasonal | 7 Comments

Internationally Known Quilter, Shruti Dandekar is Havel’s Newest Ambassador!

by Luv2Sew and Shruti Dandekar

Havel’s Sewing is  thrilled to introduce our first ambassador from India, Shruti Dandekar. She’s talented and business savvy, and using both skills to keep the art of quilting alive and vibrant in her home country!

We asked Shruti to share a bit about her journey from architect to internationally known quilter, as well as the story behind her intense passion for quilting. So without further ado…

Shruti Dandekar 1

If I were to describe myself in one sentence I would say, “I am Shruti, a creative person who derives happiness and contentment from sharing her gift with others!”

I am an Architect who took up Quilting on a sabbatical and now it has taken over my life! Quilting is more than just a hobby to me now. It is my passion, my calling! I started quilting when no one around me knew how to do that. The internet and the wonderful bloggers from all over the world were my teachers! I kept on experimenting and working out new ways to do stuff! I found alternatives for material that wasn’t available in the local market. I made do with what I had!

Shruti Dandekar 2

The first sign that Quilting was going to be more than an expensive hobby came when I made the Portrait Quilt of Dada Ajoba – my husband’s great grandfather and the founder of our family business.

It is about 33″ x 48″ and is made with more than 3500 raw edge appliqued pieces in over 30 shades of gray! It was a monumental task. And for someone who was attempting something like that a little (lot) overwhelming.

Making this quilt made me aware of my capacities. I knew ‘I had it in me’! I started thinking about taking this up as a full time career. But in my heart, I also knew that if it took 3 months and so much work to make a portrait quilt, the chances of me making another one are bleak!

That got my brain whizzing with ideas. I had one idea in particular that I was toying with. But I knew there were experts in the field that I was just starting out in and was sure they must have thought about it!

It took me almost an year to build up the courage and develop my own method to make portrait quilts that was easier and much, much faster. I made the quilt of Steve Jobs (iQuilt) for my little brother.

Shruti Dandekar 3

This was a turning point in my career! After I shared the iQuilt, I got a lot of questions asking me how I did it! I did a portrait-quilt-along for a few friends on Facebook and it all escalated from there. Before I knew it, I was launching my eBook – ABOUT face!

Shruti Dandekar 4

I believe it is the FASTEST method IN THE WORLD to make portrait quilts!
Alex Veronelli of Aurifil gracefully volunteered to be my subject for the book. I was delighted to meet him in person and hand over the quilt to him at Quiltcon 2015 in Austin, TX.

Shruti Dandekar 5

Very soon, I was made the Brand Ambassador for BERNINA India. That gave me an opportunity to teach all over the country! It has been quite a journey.

Shruti Dandekar 6

My journey from an unknown quilter in a quaint town in India to a Brand Ambassador to BERNINA and an AURIFIL Artisan as well as the Regional Representative for SAQA (Studio Art Quilt Association) for India & SE Asia has been totally fun! My best moment was when I was up on stage at QuiltCon 2017 in Savannah GA expecting to see just a couple of friends scattered over the auditorium; and instead, came face to face with a fully packed hall that was eager to listen to what I was saying about the Quilts of my land!!! I knew I had arrived!

Shruti Dandekar 7

I have learnt a lot of lessons along the way. Some hard and some totally unbelievable. I think, if I had not had to experiment so much, I would have reached here faster and much more easily.

I have always attempted to share the knowledge I have assimilated over these years. I have been teaching Quilting all over India for quite some time. But now I have also started providing coaching and mentoring to Creative Entrepreneurs.

My focus is on Indian Women Entrepreneurs who are operating home based businesses and have the desire to grow it into something big! Over the course of the next few months, I will be introducing various short courses that will help her grow her business into her dream!

If you are a quilter or want to be one sign up for my Newsletter to keep updated about my upcoming classes, courses and of course all of my FREE resources!

If you have a business that you want to grow or want to start something new sign up for my Entrepreneur Newsletter to get all information about my upcoming gigs right into your Inbox!

Shruti Dandekar 8

To know more about it you can read my blog post about 20 random things about me!
Cheers!!!

shruti_dandekar
www.shrutidandekar.com

 

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Coffee in the Garden

Coffee in the Garden by Jamie Fingal

A fun Spring to Summer narrow wall hanging that will fit most anywhere in your house 9×25, that is both pieced and raw edge applique. A charm pack friendly project.

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20 each 5” squares
Mistyfuse
½ yard Wool blended Felt by National Non Wovens WCF-001
Rotary Cutter, Ruler, Mat, Scissors

You could make this with batting too, and do binding if you prefer. I am just giving you another option by using the wool blended felt. If you can only find TOY-002 at your local quilting store, you only need one layer.

Coffee in the Garden #2

Select what squares you want for the background. You will need 12. Sew them together using a ¼” seam allowance in a four patch, then sew the four patches together to create the narrow background. Press seams to the dark side.

Coffee in the Garden #3

Line up the seams with a straight pen. I admit this has always been a challenge for me, because I am not a piecer. But, I did it, and it was like riding a bike, you just don’t forget. May the force be with you. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just perfect for you.

Coffee in the Garden #4

Apply the Mistyfuse to the back of the background and all of the other squares that you have set aside for the raw edge applique. You can do this in two sections, one for the background and one for the remaining squares. Cut off any MF that is over the edges. You want a nice clean cut. If you get fusible web on your iron plate, use a few dryer sheets folded together, and a potholder to protect your fingers. Wipe the entire iron plate with dryer sheets until clean. Then swipe your iron on a scrap piece of fabric to wipe off any residue.

Coffee in the Garden #5

Lay a sheet of parchment paper over the top. I used a Goddess Sheet that is made by Mistyfuse. Run a dry iron on the cotton setting over the top in a circular motion being careful to get all of the edges. Let it cool.

Coffee in the Garden #6

Pull up one corner to see if it is cooked. It should have a shine to it. If you pull it up and it has strings attached, it’s not done, so run your iron over it again and let it cool. For the 5” squares that are for the raw edge applique, carefully separate the squares by using your fingers to open them up and then cut them apart with your scissors.

Coffee in the Garden #7

Pattern for the tulip.

Coffee in the Garden #8

Pattern for the cup and saucer.

Coffee in the Garden #9

Pattern for the sunflower center. You can use the stem and leaves from the tulip pattern for this flower too.

Coffee in the Garden #10

For the petals.

Coffee in the Garden #11

Cut out the tulip, stem and leaves. Tuck the stem a touch under the tulip. Place it on the background. If you are happy with the placement, press it into place.

Coffee in the Garden #12

Cut and saucer. The green insert in the cup goes behind the cup, as well as the saucer. Press into place.

Coffee in the Garden #13

Making the flower. You can cut 4-5 piece out at a time for the petals. I didn’t use a straight pen, because my thumb worked pretty well.

Coffee in the Garden #14

After you have all of the petals cut out and they don’t have to be perfect, line them up around the yellow circle. You will place them just a tad under the circle, but don’t press with the iron, until you have the stem in place.

Coffee in the Garden #15

Tuck the stem under the petals and flower and press into place.

Coffee in the Garden #16

Now you have a completely fused piece. Now is time for the wool blended felt.

Coffee in the Garden #17

Press the piece onto a piece of wool blended felt, and trim the edges with a pair of sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Then add another layer of felt to the back and secure with a straight pen on the top and the bottom. Now we’re ready to free motion machine quilt.

Coffee in the Garden #18

Simply outline the cup and saucer with your needle and thread.

Coffee in the Garden #19

I have outlined the objects and sort of free styling with the needle and thread in an all over organic look.

Coffee in the Garden #20

You can clearly see my quilting lines, and yes, I cross over quite a bit. Just have fun with it. Press your piece after the machine quilting is done.

Coffee in the Garden #21

Two ways to finish. 1) straight stitch all around the edges, then cut or 2) cut all of the way around, so that the felt doesn’t show, then straight stitch the edges, so you have a nice clean line.

Coffee in the Garden #22

The end result. Hope you enjoyed making this project! Hand sew aluminum pop tops in the upper back corners and it makes for easy hanging with two nails. Have fun!

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Posted in art ideas, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Cutting Mat, Fabric, Fabric Art, Fabric Cutter, Fabric Rotary Cutters, Fabric Scissors, Fiber Art, Free Craft Projects, Free Sewing Project, Fun Stuff, Jamie Fingal, Seasonal, Uncategorized, Wall Hangings | Leave a comment

A Fun 4th of July Table Runner Project!

by Jessica Schunke of A Blue Sky Kind of Life [http://ablueskykindoflife.blogspot.com]

I don’t often make decorations for many holidays other than Christmas, but this summer, I was really itching to add a little color to my dining room table. This Ombré Star Table Runner is perfect for your Fourth of July celebrations, but you can also easily change up the colors for any number of looks. Try an array of springy pastels for Easter; shades of gold, red, and orange for fall; an ombré of hues of a single color; or maybe even a rainbow.

Star Tablerunner 1
Supplies:
Solid fabrics in 7 colors (three blue shades and three red shades for the background, plus a white for the stars): 1/8 yd. each
Backing fabric (I used a white-on-white print): ½ yd.
Binding fabric: ¼ yd.
Batting: Scrap piece measuring 14.5” x 38”
Rotary cutter [http://www.havelssewing.com/rotary-comfort-cutter-cushion-handle-32045.html]
Cutting mat [http://www.havelssewing.com/large-cutting-mat-self-healing-2-sided-32124.html]
Embroidery scissors or snips [http://www.havelssewing.com/embroidery-scissors-3-5inch-double-curved-60040.html]
Matching thread
Marking pencil

Cutting instructions: 
Star Tablerunner 2

–From each of the dark blue (B1), medium blue (B2), light blue (B3), and light red (R1) solids, cut the following:
–(1) 2″ x 3.5″
–(2) 2″ squares
–(2) 2.5″ squares
–(1) 3.5″ x 12.5″ squares
–(1) 3.5″ x 5″
–From the medium red (R2) and dark red (R3) solids, cut the following:
–(2) 2” squares
–(2) 2.5” squares
–(1) 3.5” x 12.5”
–(2) 3.5” x 3.5”
–From the white solid, cut the following:
–(12) 2.5” squares
–(6) 3.5” x 2”
–From the backing fabric, cut (1) 16.5” x 40” rectangle.
–From the binding fabric, cut (3) 2.25” x width-of-fabric strips.

Tip: Save time cutting by stacking your 1/8 yd. strips and cutting the pieces for each set all at once.
Star Tablerunner 3

Piecing instructions:
Seam allowance is ¼” throughout.

1. Make your half-square triangles (HSTs):
a. Pair each of your 2.5” color squares with a 2.5” white square.
b. Use your marking pencil to draw a diagonal line across each of the color squares.
Star Tablerunner 4

c. Sew on each side of the line, 1/4″ away from the line.

Star Tablerunner 5

d. Using your rotary cutter, cut on the line to create two HST units. Press your seams.
e. Trim each HST to 2″ square.

Star Tablerunner 6

2. Piece your half stars:
a. Following the layout in the picture, pair (2) of your dark blue HSTs with (2) of your dark blue 2″ squares. Pair the other (2) dark blue HSTs together. Sew each pair together. Press your seams.

Star Tablerunner 7
b. Finish piecing your half star by pairing a 3.5” x 2” white piece with the double HST unit and sewing together along the 3.5” side. Press your seams. Then, sew the HST/solid square units to the top and bottom of this new unit as shown.

Star Tablerunner 8
c. Repeat for each of the sections, following the layout diagram.

Star Tablerunner 9


3. Piece your sections:

a. Finish piecing your dark blue section as shown in the picture. Sew the 3.5″ x 2″ dark blue rectangle to the top of your dark blue star unit. Then, sew the 3.5″ x 5″ rectangle to the bottom of the star unit. Press your seams.
b. Sew the 3.5” x 12.5” rectangle to the side of the star unit as shown. Press your seams.

Star Tablerunner 10
c. Repeat for each of the sections, following the layout diagram.

Ombre Star Table Runner #11
4. Piece all of your sections together in the order shown in the layout diagram. Press your seams.

Ombre Star Table Runner #12

 

Finishing instructions:
1. Layer your backing, batting, and top together.
2. Baste as desired.
3. Quilt as desired. I chose to use matching thread to straight-line quilt each section separately. I stitched in the ditch around each star but left the actual stars unquilted so they would “pop.” Using a white-on-white print for the backing helped to show off the changing thread colors and made another ombré design on the back.

Star Tablerunner 13Star Tablerunner 12

Tip: Use your embroidery scissors to snip right up next to the fabric when you’re burying threads or trimming your backstitch threads during quilting.Star Tablerunner 144. Sew your binding strips together to create one long strip. Press the strip in half lengthwise to create your binding. Attach it to the front of the quilt using 1/4″ seam. Fold the binding around to the back of the quilt and attach it as desired (by hand or machine).
5. Enjoy your new table runner!

Star Tablerunner 15Ombre Star Table Runner #17

 

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Posted in 4th of July, craft, Craft to make, Crafting, Cutting Mat, Fabric, Free Craft Projects, Free Quilt Projects, Free Sewing Project, Fun Stuff, Jessica Schunke, Quilting, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

A Handy Piecing Trick!

by Emily Lang

Use this piecing trick anytime you want perfectly matching patchwork, especially when using small pieces.

What you’ll need:
Scraps, or cut squares
Lightweight fusible interfacing – such as Pellon’s Quilter’s Grid (Pellon 820)
Havel’s Ultra-pro seam ripper

First cut 25 squares paying attention so as to cut as precisely as possible. (for this example I’m using a Rolling Star block, using squares cut at 2 1/2” x 2 1/2”. The block will finish at 10” x 10”)

Arrange the squares in five rows of five with the edges touching, but not overlapping.

Measure the width of these squares laid out. Use this measurement to cut your interfacing. I like to cut my interfacing a smidge shorter than the measurement to prevent getting fusible on my iron.

picture 1

 

Place the fusible interfacing glue side up on your ironing board. Carefully arrange the squares, right side up, on top of the interfacing. Be sure that the edges are touching, but not overlapping.

 

Using a damp pressing cloth, press the blocks to the interfacing. Remove the pressing cloth when it is dry, and allow the block to cool completely before moving.

picture 2

 

Fold over one column of squares so they are right sides together on top of the rest of the squares. Sew 1/4” away from the fold.

 

 

picture 3 (1)Starting at the bottom end of the seam, carefully put the point of the Ultra-pro seam ripper between the two edge squares, within the seam allowance, with the sharp edge facing the interfacing. Gently move the seam ripper blade side to side while pulling it up along the fold. It will easily slice through the interfacing on the fold.

 

picture 4

 

Press the seam open. I use a tailor’s clapper to hold the seam open after pressing. This provides very flat seams.

 

 

Once all the rows in one direction are sewn and pressed, turn the block 90 degrees and continue with the cross rows.

picture 2picture 6

Final block (1)Rotary cutter call to action

Posted in Fabric, Fabric Cutter, How to Make a Quilt, How to Quilt, Quilting, Ultra-Pro Seam Ripper, Uncategorized | Leave a comment