Havels Sewing

Essential Materials for the Beginner

By Terry White

Quilters are an emotional group of people. We tend to fall in love with a thread, a pair of scissors, a sewing machine or fabric. After we love it, we defend it and try to convince everyone that, “mine is the best!” Please keep this in mind when I give you advice…I am suggesting materials for the beginner. When you get to know all the products available, then you will make informed choices.

The variety of threads available today is wonderful! I have almost never met a thread I didn’t like. However, I didn’t like the 4 for a dollar thread…it was bad thread.

The problem with too many choices is, “What do you need?”

You Need:
• Thread to sew patchwork together
• Thread to stitch appliqué shapes onto fabric
• Thread for the bobbin
• Thread to baste the quilt
• Thread to quilt the quilt
• There are even more choices when it comes to
decorative stitching on the surface of the quilt!

Sewing Patchwork

When you sew patchwork on the sewing machine, you want a thread that is of consistent high quality and will give you a good even stitch.

Coats&Clark Dual Duty regular sewing thread – this is a polyester thread of good quality that most people use. Many good clothing designers and manufacturers use this thread, also.

100% cotton thread – some people feel very strongly about piecing cotton fabric with cotton threads. This thread is also used for appliqué and quilting.

The picture shows a group of 24 colors of STAR cotton thread which I designed, King Tut, Gutermann, Metrosene are favorite threads for piecing.

I use regular sewing thread for patchwork. It is economical and because this thread doesn’t “show” in the work, it doesn’t have to be fancy. Use a thread that blends well with your fabrics so that it doesn’t show.

Stitching Appliqué

Appliqué shapes can be stitched with any good quality thread – depending on the look you want. I think that you should start with either cotton or rayon as these threads behave well in the sewing machine.

The picture shows rayon threads from several different companies. As you can see, rayon thread has a lovely sheen like silk. It actually is a silk substitute (silk thread is very expensive). Rayon thread will shrink and fade after time and it isn’t as strong as cotton. That is why many people use it decoratively in machine embroidery and to enhance appliqué.

The polyester threads that have recently come on the market are quite superior to the old polyesters and give the same look as rayon. They are very good for quilting.

Bobbin Thread

This term can be confusing…there are specific threads called, “bobbin thread”; and any thread that you put in the bobbin will be called “bobbin thread”. Threads called, “bobbin thread” are usually a lightweight thread that is used for programmed machine embroidery. For our purposes, the bobbin thread is that which is put in the bobbin.

When sewing patchwork, use the same thread in the bobbin that you will use in the top of your sewing machine, or, “the needle thread”.

When stitching appliqué shapes to the top of your quilt, use a regular sewing thread in the bobbin, even when you use a cotton or rayon in the needle thread.

When quilting, the bobbin thread should be the same thread as in the needle thread.

Basting Thread

When you baste, you are stitching the quilt top, batting and backing together with very large stitches. This keeps everything in place as you quilt. I use a very strong hand quilting thread for this. I like to use a thread that is similar in color or as light in color as the quilt.

Quilting Thread

There are many threads labeled as “machine quilting” threads…they are all good. The polyesters and cotton threads are the same as described above. Don’t use hand quilting threads, they don’t work well in your sewing machine.

For more information for the beginning quilter,
and free projects by Terry, click here.

Quilting Fabrics Essential for the Beginner

by Terry White

Cotton Fabric
When you are new at something, it is best to use the easiest materials. When it comes to sewing a quilt, the best material to use is 100% cotton fabrics. It is very easy to find cotton fabric for quilting these days. Walk into any fabric store and they will have a whole section for quilting. Look at and feel these fabrics. The feel will be a medium weight fabric with body. This is different from lightweight fabrics or upholstery fabrics. There will be a natural feel to the fabric as well, not slippery or heavy or rough. So, this fabric is perfect for cutting out shapes for appliqué or cutting and stitching patchwork.

You will see a beautiful variety of colors and patterns in these cotton fabrics. Where do you start? My first advice is to start with your favorite colors and styles. You will enjoy the process with every quilt you make if you use fabric in the colors and patterns that you love. Here are three representative groups of fabric:


The first group of fabrics is of Japanese design and interspersed with small printed fabrics. The Japanese patterns are rather large and spray across the fabric. The smaller prints sort of contain the large prints and work well together in a patchwork quilt. The colors of the small prints also bridge the colors of the large prints. So, if you like Japanese style and bright intense colors, then this group may appeal to you.


This second fabric grouping is of more old-fashioned or traditional prints. You will find this type of printed fabric in quilts made in the early to mid 1900’s. The fabrics in the photo are reproductions of those old-fashioned fabrics. Quilters who like this style of quilts tend to like a muted color palette and traditional quilt patterns.


This group of fabrics is called Batik. Batiks are made in India and the prints are made by printing the fabric with wax and then they are dyed in various colors. The wax is then melted away, leaving the printed image. So, the prints won’t be perfect even though they are perfectly beautiful. Batik is more tightly woven then regular cotton fabric and some of the wax residue will remain, so they are a little tougher and stronger than regular cotton prints. This group is also very bright in color and appeals to some quilters.

I have shown you three different groups of fabrics, each of which is very popular among quilters. There are many more and lots to learn. You must make your own choices. The more quilts you make (or look at) the more you will learn about how the colors and prints of fabrics work together.


The pattern you will use for your first quilt will also help to determine what fabrics you choose. For example, if you make a pattern which requires high contrast among the fabric pieces, then it will be important to choose dark, medium and light colors to create that contrast. The example to the left is a detail from a Seminole patchwork quilt. The high contrast is created by using colors that contrast as well as dark, medium and light of one color (blue in this case).

Pre-wash your fabrics
There are several reasons to pre-wash your fabric before starting a quilt. Cotton fabrics are finished with assorted chemicals to make them look good in the store, help prevent wrinkles and adds a sheen.

The chemicals can:
1. be harmful to one’s skin over long periods of exposure;
2. hide the real qualities of the fabric by filling in the weave of the fabric and giving the appearance of a finely woven material;
3. be holding in dyes that may run when washed.

Backing Fabric
You want to use the same high quality cotton fabric for the back of your quilt as for the top. Some people use sheets, but this isn’t a good idea because sheets usually have a polyester content in them which causes the needle to skip when machine quilting. If the quilt is to be hand quilted, needling through polyester/cotton mix is very hard. If the sheet used is very high thread count cotton, this is just as hard to work with as the poly/cotton blend. If you have a 100% cotton sheet that feels like your regular cottons used for the top, then this will be fine to use.

Next: Quilt Battings & Threads.

For more information on quilting, especially for the beginner, click here.

6 Tools Necessary for Appliqué

By RaeAnn Rex

If you have even basic sewing tools such as scissors, needle and thread, you can successfully learn how to appliqué designs onto your next project. However, there are some great tools out there, some of which are made with a very specialized purpose, that can make appliquéing a simple process. If you’ve ever run from an appliqué project because you didn’t know how to appliqué more difficult pieces, these tools may just make you change your mind.

Tools for Planning and Stabilizing

1. Clear Plastic – When planning your work, it can be helpful to see the big picture. Some appliqué work may be pieced from several smaller pieces, as in the case of adding people or flowers. Using a marker, trace the design onto clear plastic, so that you can determine the placement of each smaller piece before sewing them into place. While the drawing will not have any seam allowances shown, be sure to leave a small allowance on each smaller piece for sewing.

2. Fusible Web or Stabilizer – When working with stretchable fabrics, it is essential to stabilize them in order to prevent pulling and stretching. Other fabrics can also be easier to work with when using a fusible stabilizer, to keep the item in place while stitching. Fusible web will not need to be removed, but some of the fusible stabilizers will. These can either be placed on the wrong side of the main fabric the appliqué is being applied to, or they can be ironed to the wrong side of the appliqué to stabilize it. Stitch the piece down normally until you have enough of it in place that you don’t need the stabilization, then remove the paper with hemostats or tweezers before finishing it off. Freezer paper can be used as an inexpensive stabilizer in this manner.

Tools that Make Difficult Sections Easy

3. Tube Turners – Making a tube with right sides together, you can use a tube turner to pull it back through. These all work on the premise that you push them through the tube and then pull it right side out.

4. Bias Pressing Bars – To avoid turning tubes, try using a pressing bar to make your tubes. Sew the tube wrong sides together, then insert the pressing bar, scoot the seam over to the middle, and press it flat. You can then put the seam side down, and appliqué it to the project easily!



5. Circle Rotary Cutter – These little cutters are much like a compass. There is a measuring guide to allow you to choose the size of the circle, and the rotary blade makes cutting circles easy. Set the size first, then position the center point in the center of the circle you want to cut. With the blade in, make a quick circle to check that you have enough fabric, then pop the blade out, and with even pressure, cut the circle.

6. Circle Templates – Once you have your circles cut, put in a quick running stitch around the edge of them by hand. Insert a circle template into the middle, and tug the thread gently to gather the edges tight around the mica template. Adjust the gathers to be sure they are even, and press into place. You can then add a liquid stabilizer and let dry, press again, and then remove the template when it is cool. Be sure to keep the running stich thread in place so that you can easily open and close the circle again to remove the template.

Learning how to appliqué while using tools designed specifically for the job at hand can save time, and make more difficult projects open to even the less experienced sewers.

What are some of your favorite tools for qppliqué, sewing, quilting, etc.?

Men Who Quilt – Sew What?

Unique Exhibit on Display in Santa Paula

By Annie Eitman 10/13/2011

The California Oil Museum boasts an extensive display of local history consisting of antiques illustrating our region’s legacy in the oil industry. Soon, amid the various vintage tools hefted over the years by muscular and muddy derrick workers, the museum will be hosting a rather unusual exhibit. Just past the antique gas pumps and the authentic drilling rig built of cast iron and timber, the public will be able to view quilts crafted by men.

Red Eyed Tree Frog Quilt by Rob Appell

“Men Quilting! Quilts Made by Men,” is the theme for the 13th Annual Heritage Valley Festival of Quilts. This unusual collection will be on display from Oct. 16 through Feb. 5 at the Museum.

Influenced perhaps by our uncertain economic times, quilting has enjoyed a bit of a comeback. Quilting offers both creativity and comfort, an artful outlet while serving a functional purpose. The stereotypical quilt is often a quaint, common throwback to the days when life was simple, and when people took otherwise wasted bits of material and fashioned them back to life.

More than 200 years ago, men who quilted were a common occurrence in places such as England. Quilts constructed by English soldiers were prominently displayed during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are at least 21 million active quilters in the United States, but their profile has changed substantially. The average quilter is about 62 years-old, college educated and female, but there are exceptions.

Kai Johnson of Moorpark is 8 years old. This past summer his grandmother helped him piece together his first quilt, which will be on display at the California Oil Museum. His grandmother is an avid quilter, participating each year in the world’s largest outdoor quilt show in Sisters, Ore. His first quilt follows traditional patterns, but incorporates youthful colors. “My favorite part of quilting is choosing the colors and patterns of the fabrics and piecing the quilt together,” says Kai.

Today’s quilts don’t always follow the patterns of the past. Pictorial quilts often leave the rhythmic color play behind, opting instead to illustrate an event or idea. Roget Nguyen of Ventura will be exhibiting his quilts, “New York” and “Paris.” Both evoke the hustle and bustle of grand cities and remind one of modern art. Quilts in their creation, but cubist in their execution.

Bengal Tiger Quilt by Rob Appell

Rob Appell, owner of The Cotton Ball Quilt Shop in Morro Bay, will have a few quilts in the exhibit. Appell’s works showcase his varied interests in surfing, design, science and protecting endangered species. One of Appell’s quilts features a dramatic, colorful close-up of a Bengal tiger. Like many of the exhibit’s displays, Appell’s quilt offers a rhythm not seen in traditional quilting — the tiger’s stripes form a jagged but repeating pattern, its bright green eyes challenge us. The tiger is part of a series dedicated to endangered species, with a portion of the revenue generated from sales of the quilt patterns donated to the World Wildlife Fund.

Appell notes the surge in male quilters: “I must admit I feel a bit confused by the guys starting to make it public that they make quilts. When I first started years back there were very few of us guys who were brave enough to confess that they made quilts, and now it is no longer such a rare thing. I love being recognized for my art, and yes, being a young male who makes quilts helps me to get recognized.”

“Men Quilting! Quilts Made by Men,” Oct. 16 through Feb. 5 at The California Oil Museum, 1001 E. Main St. in Santa Paula. The public is invited to attend the opening reception on Sunday, Oct. 16 from 1 to 3 p.m.. Light refreshments will be served. A short gallery talk by guest curator Linda Wilkinson will be held at 1:30 p.m. Hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday.

eitman@mindspring.com

Altered Print Tray Project: “Scissors as Art”

by Terry White

My brother, Wally (the carpenter) gave me 20 old printer’s trays. Then, I received a beautiful set of Havel’s scissors….I know….I’ll make cool displays for my scissors! The first one I made is now on the set of Quilting Arts TV. So, I took photos of step-outs for my second tray. I still have to make another to replace my first one…..that’s okay, because this is fun!













So, the first thing to do was to lay out the scissors in the best arrangement. This grouping of scissors includes 9″ Professional Dura-Sheers and 9″ Serrated Dura-Sheers. Good scissors are essential to my fiber work.












Next, I pulled out my cool notion collection. The way I feel about it is that, if I don’t use my cool notions, then someday, somebody else will buy them in an estate sale!










As I began to lay things out, the colors and graphics of the Kohinoor Snap Card set the tone for the work. So, I exchanged some of my first ideas and used strong graphic design pieces.











After getting an idea of where things would go, I placed them on a large corkboard. I was careful to place them in the same arrangement.









I wear my safety glasses when doing this kind of work – using a chisel and mallet, I made angled cuts in the center of each little partition slat. Then, I cut the slats at the intersections.









When all my cuts were made, I sealed the tray with “White Lightening”. It is a white stain and a sealer; very easy to use, just brush it on. From this point, I can paint with acrylics and use my hot glue gun to add my pieces.









I attached some of the notion cards with “HandiTak” reusable adhesive. It doesn’t hurt the notion card – just in case I find out that one of these antiques is a National Treasure!









This could be a weekend project, but I like to work on a project like this over some time. It gives me a chance to think about the little vignettes I can create, and consider design choices.

Here is Terry’s first print tray scissors storage holding Havel’s Sew Creative Line.


To see more projects by Terry White click here.