How to Make A Scarf for Summer

Make A Summer Scarf
By Holly Hanover

Multicolor shawls and scarves.

Scarves are a perfect accessory. They can add visual interest to any outfit, enlivening it with contrasting prints, colors and textures. Most scarves are impractical for summer, however. We all have a few thick scarves for the winter months. When the first flowers begin to bloom and we begin thinking planning our summer swimsuit shopping, however, we instinctively put them away, forgetting about them until the following autumn.

But there’s no rule that says scarves need to be restricted to the winter months! Certain scarves are too hot for summer, of course, but by selecting the right fabric you can make one suitable for summer. When you know how to make a scarf, you’ll be able to craft a unique and fun accessory that can add interest to any outfit.

The best summer scarves are made from lightweight fabrics like Gingham, Seersucker, Gauze, and Percale cotton. Percale often comes in darker colors, while Gingham is great if you want a light fabric with patterns of checks, plaids and stripes. Gauze is perfect if you want to create a somewhat fey and ethereal scarf – perfect for a romantic getaway or picnic. You’ll need between half a yard and a yard of your chosen fabric to make a scarf.

You will only need a few other items to make your fun summer scarf:

Havel’s Fabric Scissors

• Your Favorite Sewing Machine

Havel’s Ultra-Pro Seam Ripper

Here are simple instructions for making a scarf of lightweight fabric. The following instructions  will work best for silk organza which is one of the most lightweight fabrics.

Cut  the fabric rectangle the size you want your scarf to be. Add one inch to the length and width of the scarf for seam allowances. When working with a lightweight fabrics it is a good idea to prepare them first by spraying all the edges with a good spray starch.  Mary Ellen’s Best Press works beautifully. You are taking a soft fabric and adding body so that it is easier to work with.  Let the fabric dry a little and press. You can repeat this three times. (When you wash the scarf all the stiffness will disappear.) Choose a needle for lightweight fabric. A 75 will work well. Use a utility sewing foot with a flat back and set the machine for a zigzag stitch. The width is 1.5 and the length is 2.

Fold 1/2″ of the edge underneath the fabric and sew along the folded edge. Remove the excess edge by cutting close to the stitch. Applique scissors were made for this. Havel’s offers several options:  Straight Serrated Fabric Scissors,  Duck Bill scissors or the Double Curved Applique will make short work of this project.

Now you can create a summer scarf with just a few yards of lightweight fabric and a pair of Havel’s Scissors. However you choose to do it, it’s easy to craft a delightful and unique accessory once you know how to make a scarf!

Get the Tools You Need
For Your Summer Scarf Here!

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Fun Craft To Make by Terry White

FAN SCISSORS WRAP

Fan Scissor Wrap #1

This project was so much fun, that I kept making more in different styles. The first one received enough oooohs and ahhhs from friends that I knew this would have to become presents for my girls….all my girls!!….AND, each one will suit the personality of the friend.

When you open up the wrap, there are three pockets for three different scissors. The pockets will hold scissors eight inches and smaller. This is my personal fan scissors wrap and such a fun craft to make!

The three scissors I use the most are:
1. Havel’s Bent Embroidery Scissors when I thread paint and use the decorative embroidery
stitches on my Bernina.
2. Havel’s 7″ Serrated Scissors when I cut most fabrics and slippy trims.
3. Havel’s 5 1/2″ Curved Scissors when I cut appliqué shapes.

Fan Scissor Wrap #2

Supplies:

  • Four fabrics: I used cotton…use anything you want!
  • 6”x12” scraps of three…and 17”x24” piece for the lining and pocket
  • Fusible Interfacing: One piece 12”x17”
  • Fusible Web: One piece 20”x20”
  • Beautiful threads for embroidery: I used Star Cottons…multi-colors (from the group which I designed) choose threads and colors which enhance your fabrics.
  • Shank button
  • Large two hole button
  • Elastic cord: 5” length
  • Beads and baubles: for decoration
  • Permanent fabric markers: to color the elastic and (optional) to color the edge before or after edge stitching all around the wrap.
  • Havel’s Jumbo Rotary Cutter
  • Havel’s Bent Embroidery Scissors
  • Havel’s 7” Serrated Scissors
  • Felt or ultrasuede scraps: for labels
  • Clear plastic scraps: for label windows
  • Cardstock for ID’s

*There are three main pieces to this project…..the decorated cover, lining, and scissor pocket.*

The Decorated Cover

1. Use pattern piece A: Trace the shape onto fusible interfacing and cut out.

2. Use pattern pieces B, C, D, E, F: Trace each shape onto desired fabric and cut out.

Fan Scissor Wrap #3 Fan Scissor Wrap #4

Fan Scissor Wrap #5 Fan Scissor Wrap #6b

3. Lay the fabric shapes side by side onto the fusible interfacing and press.

Fan Scissor Wrap #7

4. Decorate with decorative stitching and beautiful threads.
TIP: Because this is a project which will get a lot of use, I don’t add too many delicate
details…..this will be different for different styles….but add what you like!

5. Trim the excess interfacing and rough edges of decorative cover. Use this as a pattern and cut out your lining piece and a piece of fusible web. Set aside.

Scissor Pocket
6.Use pattern piece G: Trace shape onto lining fabric…this is the scissor pocket.Fan Scissor Wrap #87.Fold the top edge of the pocket piece 1/2 inch and press. Use a piece of fusible web to tack it down.Fan Scissor Wrap #98. Add fusible web to extra strips of lining fabric. Iron them to the wrong side
of the pocket along the fold lines. This adds stability to the pockets

9. Decorate the top edge with decorative stitching.

10. Decorate the two sides of each scissor pocket fold with a row of decorative stitches.

Fan Scissor Wrap #10

11. Lay the pocket onto the lining fabric. Stitch the pocket to the lining with a
lightening stitch along the fold lines.

Final Construction

12. Apply fusible web to the back of the decorative cover according to manufacturer’s directions.

13. Press the pocket and liner to the back of the decorative cover.

Fan Scissor Wrap #11

14. Finish edge all around. I used two threads through a 90/14 needle with an overcast stitch.
This is a great place to use a serger.

Fan Scissor Wrap #12

15. Attach a two hole button to the cover with colored elastic cord.
Use a permanent marking pen to color the elastic. Make a loop and knot it.

Fan Scissor Wrap #13

Pull the two ends of the elastic through the back of the button. Use an awl to make two holes large enough for the elastic to go through the cover. Knot the elastic on the back.

16. Sew a shank button on the cover to finish the closure.

Fan Scissor Wrap #14 Fan Scissor Wrap #15

17. Add a bead drop to the bottom.

18. The bead drop was made from parts of old jewelry and lovely one-of-a-kind glass beads. The heart pin is from a box of costume jewelry I bought years ago. The big pink button I used is vintage, but one I considered using is from Blumenthal called “Cut Outs” which I picked up in the Green Room at a Quilting Arts TV shoot!

Fan Scissor Wrap #16

19. Follow the photos to make the label windows and ID’s.

Fan Scissor Wrap #17 Fan Scissor Wrap #18

The plastic window is glued to the inside of the suede frame. The frame is glued to the scissor pockets on the sides and the bottom, this way, the cardboard ID label slides right in.

Fan Scissor Wrap Pattern A (A,B,C,D)

Fan Scissors Wrap Pattern A (B, C, D, E, F Combined)

Fan Scissor Wrap D, E, F

Fan Scissors Wrap Pattern D, E, F

Fan Scissor Wrap Pattern G (H Combined Three Times)

Fan Scissors Wrap Pattern G (H Combined Three Times)

Click here for a printable PDF version of Terry’s Fan Scissors Wrap.

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Posted in Embroidery Scissors, Fabric, Free Craft Projects, Fun Stuff, Guest Writers, Patterns, Terry White, Tutorials, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

How to Make A Baby Quilt

Quick and Easy Reversible Baby Quilt

By Linda Hall

You will love making this fun reversible quilt in an afternoon! It’s the perfect gift to Insert1 336x448have on hand for baby showers, or for the special babies in your life.  Add your own special touches. If you have an embroidery machine you can add fun designs to some of the squares.

Sewing Supplies: 

Cut:

From print #1:Insert 2 448x336
9 squares 6”x 6

From print/ solids  #2:
8 squares 6”x 6”

From print/solids #3:
8 squares 6”x6”

From print/solids  #4:
9 squares 6”x6”

From print/solid   #5:Insert 3 448x336
8 squares 6’x6”

 

Insert 4 448x336From each of the three strip fabrics:

Two strips 6”x width of the fabric

From Batting:
Six strips 6” wide x 39”

 

 

 

 

 

Sew:

  1. Thread your sewing machine with sewing thread top and bobbin.
  2. Attach the 1/4” piercing foot.
  3. Begin by sewing 7 squares into vertical strips following the diagram above. Mark each row by number as you finish it. These will be referred to as the pieced strips.
  4. Press the seam allowances all towards the bottom of the strip. Set aside.
  5. Attach the dual feed foot.
  6. Place pieced strip #1 wrong sides together with one of the plain 6” strips with  batting  in between them. Sew the left edge close to the raw edges securing all the layers together. This will be the outside edge of the quilt.inseert 5 336x448
  7. Place a plain strip on right side down on top of the pieced strip (these two will be right sides together). Pin.
  8. Place pieced strip 4 right sides up underneath the plain 6” strip (these two will be right sides together). Re-pin through the new layers.
  9. Place batting underneath all.
  10. Align the edges of the fabric and batting with the edge of the Dual Feed. This will be a bit more than 1/4”. Stitch the strip in place.
  11. Fold out the pieces and press with steam. Pin the new edges together.
  12. Repeat, adding the remainder of the strips in the same manner. Always combine a pieced strip and a solid strip right side together. On the side where strip #1 was placed, strip #2 goes next. On the side where strip #4 was placed strip #5 goes next, etc.
  13. Stitch the outer edge on the final strip securing the edges together.
  14. Bind the quilt in whatever method you choose.Insert 6 448x336Insert 7 448x336

    Click Here For Additional Craft Projects 

     

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Free Craft to Make: Spring Bloomin’ House

Spring Bloomin’ House by Jamie Fingal

image 01 342x336

What you will need:

2 pieces of wool blended felt in black and a coordinating color

cutting mat, ruler and rotary cutter

pre-fused scrap fabrics, and fabrics from your stash

Mistyfuse

parchment paper or Goddess sheets

Bamboo felt – in a few bright colors

Pinking Shears

Iron

Sewing machine

 

image 02 448x336

Start by cutting a piece of wool blended felt (black) for your foundation 12×12

 

image 03 448x336 Select fabrics for the background – blue for the sky and green for the landscaping.  The sky fabric should cover about 2/3rds from the top.  I used pinking shears to cut the top of the green landscape fabric, to add some fun.  Iron into place.

 

image 04 448x336

Auditioning fabrics.  This is the main part of my stash of fabrics, and Batiks are center stage, because that is what I use the most in my work.  Select fabrics that are the same value.   The majority of my fabrics all go together, because ‘brights’ are my color palette.  There is not one pastel in the bunch.

 

image 05 448x336

 

 

I kept thinking of my theme for this house quilt, so it was easy to select the fabric for the house, something bright and cheerful.

 

 

 

image 06 448x336

 

Fusing with Mistyfuse.  This is a 12” roll, that is oh so easy to use.  Roll it out onto your fabic, and cut.

 

 

 

image 07 448x336

Place parchment paper or a Goddess Sheet over the top and press with an iron on the ‘cotton’ setting, no steam.  Press in a circular motion, making sure that all of the edges are secure.  As you fold back the sheet, you can clearly see what side is fused, because of the shiny appearance that is visible.  Cut the around the entire piece, trimming off the parts that are not fused.

 

image 08 448x336

Figure out the placement of your house

 

image 09 336x448

After looking at black and white fabrics, that I would usually use for the roof, I decided on a yellow roof because it was more Spring like. I cut the fabric edges with pinking shears, and ironed into place on the house

image 10 448x336

The Bamboo felt flower is about 3” in diameter.  Then I cut three other colors for the center.  I would recommend 2 for the center, because when you sew them onto the quilt, your needle will be going through 6 layers of felt, and this is where I broke a needle.  So please be careful.

 

The windows and door are made with solid robin egg blue fabric (leftover from another project).  I don’t use solids in my work, so this is a stretch, even for me.  You could add more windows, but I decided that I wanted to add shutters to the windows, so there wouldn’t be room for more windows.  Keep it simple, I keep telling myself.

 

image 11 448x336

How to cut the windows.  Small strips, and cut squares for each of the windows.  This is when Havel’s 8″ Serrated Scissors, really come into play.

 

image 12 448x336

After you have placed all of the window panes where you want them, iron carefully into place.  They don’t have to be perfect.

 

image 13 448x336

The Bamboo felt can be fused with Mistyfuse, and it adheres pretty well to the art quilt.  When it gets heavy, like the flower, it won’t stick.  Just know that going in.  Cut the stem and leaves, and the extra curvy pieces in the landscaping.  These add depth, color and texture to your piece.  Add a tiny circle to the front door.

 

image 14 448x336

It’s looking good!  Now you can add the walkway.  An inviting part to the landscape!

 

image 15 448x336

Now we are ready for the backing.  I am using a piece of wool blended felt from National Nonwovens TOY002, sage green.  Cut it a bit larger than your top piece.  You can pin it if you feel more comfortable in securing the top to the backing.

image 16 448x336

 

Take it to the machine, and using black thread.  I use Isacord 40 weight poly thread.  I started with the landscaping on the right side and then move onto the house.

 

 

image 17 448x336

Free motion quilting the landscaping, and making sure that the felt does not flip up, when sewing it into place.  You can secure it wtih one hand when you put the needle down, and then proceed to sew it down.

 

image 18 448x336

The house is loosely free motion machine quilted.  I am not about perfection, but more about having fun with what you are doing.  However, I seemed to have a little mishap on one of the windows and I am going to have to fix that window, because it doesn’t look good.

 

image 19 448x336

The window fix.  I cut out another window piece, that has Mistyfuse on the back, and I am going to iron it into place over that messed up window, and press it into place.

 

 

image 20 448x336

The window has been repaired, and sewn into place, and know one would ever know.  Whoohoo!

 

image 21 448x336

Sewing down the stems, leaves and flower onto the background.  I added fused fabrics for inside the two leaves, for added interest.  I used one pin, just so the leaf would be anchored in the right position, before free motion machine quilting it’s leaf design on the inside.

 

image 22 448x336

the flower

 

image 23 448x336

The center of the flower.  This is where you want to use less Bamboo felt for the center.  I was sewing through 6 layers of felt and broke my needle, because it was simply too thick.  You could have 1-2 contrasting color’s, and call it a day.

 

image 24 448x336

Free motion machine quilting the blue background, I just echoed the flower motifs on the blue fabric.  Easy peasy.  In and around the flower, and the leaves.  Alternate method would be to free motion machine quilt the background, before you added the flower, stem and leaves.

 

image 25 448x336

 

Finishing the edges, by sewing a zig zag around the entire art quilt, making sure to anchor your stitches in the beginning and at the end.

 

 

image 26 448x336

 

When you get to the flower, anchor your stitches before you skip over a pedal, then anchor again, when you start stitching.  Repeat to go over the next one. Cut the threads on the front and back that cross the pedals.

 

image 27 448x336

Cutting the edges.  Using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim the green felt, just so you can see it from the front.

 

image 28 448x336

Here’s what the back of the quilt looks like.  I think it looks so cool to see the stitching lines!

 

image 29 342x336

The finished Spring House!  I invite you to email me at Jamie.Fingal@gmail.com to share your own house creation!

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How to make a scarf: Chenille Style!

Chenille Scarf by Ruth Chandler

brittany wearing chenille scarfThis technique uses a special rotary cutter that has a guide on the bottom of the blade to prevent all layers of fabric from being cut. There are two ways to accomplish the fraying that makes the chenille. First, you can cut the fabric at a 45 degree angle, second you can stitch the fabric at a 45 degree angle. Without this angle the fabric will not fray nicely and you will be disappointed with your results.

Supplies:

There are two different options to choose from
when making your chenille scarf…

Option #1 – Fabric cut at 45 degree angle:

Stitch lines 1/2" apart from end to end

Stitch lines 1/2″ apart, from end to end.

  • First, press your fabric. I like to use a light starch spray such as Best Press. It will allow you to get a more controlled cut.
  • Lay the fabric out on a large table with the cutting mat under the fabric.
  • Using your ruler, find the 45 degree angle.
  • Line it up on a selvage edge of the fabric and draw a line along the ruler on the fabric. You will have to move your ruler keeping it lined up with the marking line until the line reaches across to the other selvage.
  • Now is the time to decide how wide you want your scarf, I would suggest no narrower than 6 inches and no wider than 12 inches.
  • Use at least 4 layers of fabric but no more than 6… I used 5. More than six layers and the scarf will be too bulky and the cutter will have a difficult time cutting through all the layers. Not to mention the wear and tear on your hands!
  • Now for the layering – the bottom (or first) layer needs to be right side DOWN.
  • Place the other layers right side UP on the first (or bottom) layer.
  • Pin the layers together, matching up the edges and smoothing out any wrinkles. Take your time with this step and use lots of pins, especially with the rayon.
  • If the edges are a little off that is okay, we will trim it up at the end.

Now it is time to stitch. Stitch from one end to the other, length wise. I used the markings on my machine throat plate to guide the stitch lines, but if you are not comfortable with that you can mark lines with your marking pencil. Try to keep the markings as faint as possible so they are easier to wash out. The chenille cutter has instructions on the package, it is important to read these so you can choose the right blade guide for your scarf. My stitch lines were a ½ inch apart so I used the medium 6mm guide. This worked well on the 5 layers of rayon that I cut at the 45 degree angle.

  • chenille pix trio 309x640Start at the right edge and stitch lines ½ inch apart end to end, until you have filled the whole scarf.
  • Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of each row to hold the stitching.
  • Lay the scarf out on the cutting mat.
  • Prior to this next step, engage your chenille blade in preparation for cutting.
  • You may want to snip the ends of your rows first with scissors, to get started.
  • Now, slide the cutter guide into the first row of stitching under all layers EXCEPT the bottom layer – do NOT cut the bottom layer of fabric!
  • Slide the cutter along the row and repeat this process till all rows are cut.
  • Be sure the guide is flat on the table, it will work more smoothly.
  • Sometimes a few fibers from the fabric will catch on the guide, simply pull the fibers out using a pair of tweezers.
  • If you want a little fringe at the ends of the scarf, you can cut through all layers to separate them. I would suggest not cutting the fringe any longer than 4 inches.

 

close up of chenille scarf after washing

Here is a close-up of the chenille scarf
after it’s been washed.

Now comes the magic part! Throw the scarf in the washer. I suggest a few towels also. Wash on a regular cycle. When you pull it out it will be frayed! Dry it with the towels, (you may have to shake your towels outside to get rid of stray threads) and when it is dry you will have a beautiful scarf! If the edges need to be trimmed to make it less ragged on the edges, use your straight rotary cutter to trim the outside edges.

Option #2 – Fabric stitched at 45 degree angle:

  • This technique takes a lot more time and thread.
  • Press and starch the fabric.
  • Lay the fabric out and cut 5, 8″ wide strips the length of the fabric.
  • You should have 5, 8″ x 72″ strips.
  • Lay the first strip right side DOWN.
  • Layer the next 4 strips right side UP.
  • Pin all layers together.
  • Find the 45 degree angle on your ruler and mark across the scarf starting at one narrow end and working down to the other.
  • Stitch along the markings, be sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end of each row.
  • Stitch all rows.
  • Prior to this next step, engage your chenille blade in preparation for cutting.

  • You may want to snip the ends of your rows first with scissors, to get started.
  • Now, slide the cutter guide into the first row of stitching under all layers EXCEPT the bottom layer – do NOT cut the bottom layer of fabric!
  • Slide the cutter along the row and repeat this process till all rows are cut.
  • If the guide is flat on the table it will work more smoothly.
  • Follow the above directions for washing and drying.

I hope you enjoy making a scarf to match your personal style. As always, I love it when you send me photos of your finished work.

Ruth

Click here for more more projects by Ruth Chandler

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